February 3, 2013
Creative Pattern Making
Before the creative pattern making module, I would confine myself to form-hugging silhouettes and would be scared to venture into volumes and body defying forms. It’s after learning these techniques that I experimented with body-defying forms and silhouettes. The creative pattern making module has further enriched my creativity and skills as a fashion designer. Drawing my inspiration from Japanese fashion designers like Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake and Indian designers like Kallol Datta, I have various forms and shapes that completely redefine the human anatomy. The following muslin garments were conceptualized, designed and constructed in a limited time span of 3 hours.
Inspired from the concept of turban being a rectangular piece of fabric that is twisted and draped, a rectangular piece of fabric has been twisted and stitched at the center front with sleeves attached. The top has a fitted front while the excess fabric elegantly falls to create delicate cowls at the back.
The fitted shirt top has the placket extended into built up neckline and gently falls to create layers.
The contours and lines of a petal, the organic form inspiration has been converted in terms of seams and panel shapes. The shoulders are dropped, delineating the arm hole with sleeve pattern cut from a single spiral panel. Two dimensional patterns combine to illustrate 3-D forms which are rebelling and highly dramatic.
Square piece of fabric has been folded in origami paper crane technique and the pristine folds are later draped to lend extreme emphasis on shoulders with revealing back.
The exercise brief was to write a story, derive an element as inspiration in order to create a garment. Drawing inspiration from the ant in ‘And and the Grasshopper’ story, the style lines and the silhouettes of the garment reflect an ant’s body contour with exposing back. The bodice abides by the body shape while godet detailing at hips adds volue in turn glorifying the feminine curves with additional emphasis.
External panels of fabrics were additionally inserted in a bell sleeve inorder to add volume and redefine the contours.
Taking cue from the legendary fashion designer Rei Kawakubo, the garment is extremely rebelling, towards the intellectual side of fashion. The garment breaks almost every possible rule right from the arm-hole to waist definition. Panels of godet have been inserted in various places such as sleeve and waist to create unusual volume.
The fitted top has one continuous spiral seam that starts at neckline, goes around front and back and finally ending at the waistline. Hence, the entire top has been cut and stitched out of a single panel!