The GIF images of Alexander Wang running on the ramp, smiling and dancing… that must be one hell of a feeling. Look at him, in 10 years there was the infamous stint with Balenciaga, H&M collaboration and his own strong signature label. Street influence and badass attitude that doesn’t necessarily conform with New York’s traditional glamour, has constantly remained as the core aesthetics in Alexander Wang’s line. His SS16 line was about stitching together all the 10 years to present a retrospective in mesh, leather, bombers, denims, over-sized clothing and baseball caps. From sporty to sexy to grungy, all the looks point out to different Wang girls from the past decade. Some of those looks also came in menswear alternatives – first time in Alexander Wang runway.
Let me put it this way – I watched one of the most democratic fashion show happening in a country that’s broadly accepted as modern world’s first democracy, Youtubing from a Southern town of the world’s largest democracy. Givenchy’s creative head Riccardo Tisci headed to U S of A to showcase the eponymous label’s SS16 collection. After what’s been exactly a month’s time after the show concluded, here I am in India, still reminiscing Riccardo Tisci’s democratized runway show. The show is yet another example to the increasing notion of appreciating diversity in fashion. The looks were a melange of womenswear, menswear and haute couture ensembles. The inspiration came from broadened Geographic horizons and the show engaged everybody’s participation from public and fashion students to the likes of Kim-Kanye and Anna Wintour. From the music to Mr. Tisci’s creations, Givenchy SS16 radiates multi-cultural influences.
Illustration – Makeup at Givenchy SS16
The facial jewellery make-up with intricate gold trims draws parallel with traditional Indian bridal jewellery. The black sheer-opaque gown with Eastern origami influence easily goes into my best-list this season. Another long sleeve gown drew influence from Middle-East in form of mosaics. There was abundance of tribal influence, most notably feathers, piercings and ornate masks. The menswear pieces had an elegant outlook. Though it is a far cry from the bloody stains and prints from previous season, they all had Riccardo Tisci’s signature dark gothic influence. The colour palette itself was primarily in monochrome black and white with a bit of nudes. Givenchy’s show coincided with 9/11’s 14th anniversary and showcasing the collection to 800+ New Yorkers with the view of Freedom Tower in backdrop was a way of paying a quiet homage to honour the occasion.
Marc Jacobs, ladies & gentlemen, presenting you an all-Amrican show. Models walked down a red carpet to eventually parade in theatrical settings with live orchestra. There was a bit of everything. Varsity jackets were paired with dazzling floral skirts. Embellished florals adorning muted plaids. Pringle diamonds with metallic embellishments. Masculine stripes. Hollywood red carpet inspired looks. Plenty of brooches and a bit of roaring 20s influence. Shocking pink spotted in a blouse paired with pleated trousers. Pink again made an appearance in leggings teamed with varsity jacket. There was one look that earns a sure shot place in The Grand Budapest Hotel. Some looks had dazzling versions of Jackie’s clothes from That 70s Show. Nautical influence came in form of sailor collar. And then, there were faces emoting with the clothes. Faces were later used as repeat motifs like in Pop Art, just that the colours were barely close to pop art. Red and white stripes taken straight from the American flag in muted hues were spotted too. From floral embroidered sheer ensembles to suits in muted greys, there was a bit of literally everything. Even the modelling cast, had debutants to established names like Karen Elson and Adriana Lima. Beth Ditto walked the ramp too! It’s hard to describe everything from all the 60+ looks in words. You will end up missing something or the other. In fact, even the video didn’t do justice to the scrupulous details in the garments. You want more. You want to see the clothes in real, get a tactile feel. 60 looks weren’t enough. You want more and more. You can’t get enough of the razzle dazzle parade at Marc Jacobs SS16 ruway. The show inspired from American theatre came to me like an Indian masala film – with a bit of everything, in a positive way. It was an exuberant Marc Jacobs premiere!
It was the menswear line that made me a 3.1 Phillip Lim loyalist. However, his RTW range isn’t any short of inspiration. Phillip Lim’s athletic outlook and minimalist ethos has resulted in functional, quirky and young designs over the last decade. As the label celebrates its 10th anniversary, Phillip Lim breathes in fresh aesthetics into his collection line without forgetting the no-fuss approach of the brand’s past. His latest SS16 collection, primarily in earthy hues of mineral green, greys, whites, sand and blues, had floral theme translated in form of embroidery. The delicate florals teamed with net headgears were juxtaposed with tough leather and masculine pinstripes to create young and rebellious femininity. A calm and polite rebellion, in classic Phillip Lim style. The white pinstripe trousers with white panel details is something I can wear myself. Quirky slits and slashes in sleeves, knees, under the bust and waist were among my most favourite details.
Fashion Illustration – Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2016
Fashion designers have been making some serious statements on runways this season and Ralph Lauren’s SS16 collection may help you break free from complex notions and instead feel slightly relaxed and pleasant. How about a French holiday for next summer? Ralph Lauren redefined the term effortlessness with this Rivera themed collection. Easy (rather breezy) silhouettes in classic combo of red, white and navy with occasional geometric outbursts hints at a sophisticated American woman set to sail for a European summer.