Illustrations – Best of Couture SS2015 Shows
JOHN GALLIANO FOR MAISON MARGIELA
This one had to be THE favorite couture show this season. Yes, ladies and gentlemen, the hero is finally back! Home is where heart is. John Galliano moved to London, away from the negativity of Paris to showcase the artisanal collection of Maison Margiela. The label dropped the founder’s name Martin. The ‘Martin’ identity doesn’t fit in anymore. The brand’s aesthetics are torn, ripped apart and now reconstructed in John Galliano’s way just like the garments he showcased in the artisanal collection. The collection was in no way intended to sell out but instead John Galliano’s clothes were walking mood boards/concept boards that can be translated into his upcoming collections. Yes, there were few wearable outfits in form of pristinely tailored black tuxedo suit, blazer and even couple of full length red gowns. But what you take back is the images of lobster like forms, deconstructed silhouettes and red latex. John Galliano’s couture is far from glamour. It’s absolutely raw and yet refined. Tailoring goes in hand with deconstruction. Luxury is juxtaposed with synthetic trash. Chaos is paired with order. There’s a method to his madness.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
Jean Paul Gaultier’s spring/summer 2015 couure collection primarily celebrated duality with asymmetrical garments. It was about how asymmetry was executed. Jean Paul Gaultier unified halves of two different silhouettes to churn out contrasting hybrids. A little black dress featured tailored suit in one half and flowy dress in the other. Red-white dress had streamlined silhouette in one half and voluminous gathers emerging from a pinched waistline in the other. Layered tulle emerged from the foreshortened hem of a trench coat. Black dresses exposed boning and crinoline cages in one half. The hybrid was unusual and striking with JPG’s signature techniques.
The wedding themed show had plenty of full length white dress. The tulle ensemble featuring denim waistband is among my favourite pieces from SS15 couture collections. Snakeskin in bold red made an appearance in trench coat. Naomi Campbell concluded the show for JPG, draped in green cellophane and florals, emulating a wedding bouquet.
Raf Simons is a visionary. A futurist. His modern vision is probably what landed him the top job at Christian Dior. His contemporary interpretations of future employed with Dior’s luxury techniques resulted in a technicolor feast at Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2015.
Fashion is overseeing a futuristic paradigm shift signifying the present era where people endlessly scroll, pause, click and upgrade their fashion. John Galliano, the ex-creative head at Dior showcased a collection with abundance of futuristic junk at Maison Margiela. Ram Simons opened his show with a printed sheer plastic coat paired with a short dress and latex legging-boots with Perspex hells. Latex legging boots in black and pop tones of tangerine, green, carmine and blues accompanied dresses in Raf’s signature A-line silhouette with sequined surfaces. The hair-do was yet another highlight where neat ponytail hung from metallic rings. Technicolor linear elements however became the eventual talking point of the collection. The lines appeared horizontal and polychromatic on full skirted ballerina dresses, sequined and vertical on short dresses and in zigzag patterns on catsuits.
RALPH & RUSSO
The idea was to keep this illustration simple and breathable just like Ralph & Russo spring/summer 2015 couture collection.
Floral embroidery, new look inspired silhouettes, ornate drapes and whimsical petal dresses, all in delicate pastels, and a few outfits in black, as delicate and feminine as others – pretty much sum up the recipe at Ralph & Russo’s spring/summer 2015 couture show. This label isn’t a purveyor of futurist vision like Raf Simons or rips apart and reconstructs aesthetics like in John Galliano’s case for Maison Margiela. It’s simple and straight – just about the clothes, clothes that feed red carpet’s appetite, clothes that Cheryl and Beyonce might buy straight from the runway. Not the aesthetics that I’d relate to but that definitely doesn’t stop me from appreciating it.
Last but not the least in the list is Giambattista Valli spring/summer 2015 couture collection. The collection featured the regular silhouettes, womanly yet crafty. What really stood out for me was the masterfully crafted floral embroidery, rose prints and floral petals that adorned the clinical silhouettes.
What are the spring/summer 2015 couture shows that stood out for you? Which of these shows made it to your list? Do leave your feedback in the comments.