March 20, 2015
10 Shades of Grey
If I was a colour, I’d be one in among the tints and shades of black and white. It’s no surprise that when I set myself a task to compile the best looks from Menswear autumn/winter 2015 runway, I unintentionally ended up listing 10 looks that are all black-grey. These 10 looks from AW2015 runway evoke a feeling from within to look like them. You look them on runway and you’ll go like… I want to be that cool guy. Thankfully, black is the new black and the coolest guys are sporting charcoal shades.
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
May be I am drawn towards this look because it has a certain Middle-Eastern vibe or may be it’s the linear elements that’s calling for attention. Linear stripe details were a big part of 3.1 Phillip Lim autumn/winter 2015 collection. This head-to-toe charcoal ensemble featuring a jumpsuit and coat won’t just keep you comfortable and warm but also has a rich texture to it. The boots with rope like braided laces are among my favourites this season.
I would try out several design variations of jackets with curved over-lapped opening during my fashion college days and it’s no surprise that Ann Demeulemeester’s unconventional curve shaped placket openings dotted by bold black buttons caught my attention. There were a few fierce looks which had chaotic red panels popping out from Ann Demeulemeester’s AW2015 collection but I go with this ensemble for its relatively subtle feel in grey and black and yet looking bold, powerful and somewhat rebellious. The stylist at Ann Demeulemeester’s show was smart enough to finish the look with berry coloured shoes.
This look from Antonio Marras autumn/winter 2015 collection has a casual and comfortable vibe to it without compromising on details. It’s something that I’d wear to my college, to the mall or simply when am wandering the streets on a winter evening. The grey tshirt featuring interesting embroidered/patch work graphic goes effortlessly with the quilted separates. Yes, my eyes are on the cuffed pants too.
COMME DES GARCONS
The asymmetric jacket from Comme des Garcons autumn/winter 2015 collection single-handedly earned this look a place in this list. The choice of using pin stripe fabric to construct a jacket with spiral seamlines is a stroke of genius. No, the pin stripes aren’t mitered and are instead meeting in conflicting directions.The asymmetry is outright loud that it even extends to the sleeves. Would I wear it? Yes, stay away from me!
COUNTY OF MILAN
I am not sure about the technique (print/fabric construction) that’s used to achieve that black-white ombre like effect but the crew neck sweatshirt and fitted pants are among the smartest finds from AW2015 runway. The look is young, trendy, smart and who wouldn’t want to own those high ankle shoes?
I have an unexplained obsession for themes dealing with dark subject and when a pioneer like Ricardo Tisci says, “Devil is not always bad,” after presenting a collection dealing with his dark obsessions, you cannot help but dig deep and deeper into the ensembles. It’s more likely that you’ll find god in them. And when you involve yourself that deep into a collection, you know it’s highly impossible to list one look as your favourite. May be it’s my love for rusty stain/splatter textures that this look stood out for me. **Painting nails black**
Louis Vuitton Mens autumn/winter 2015 collection was a tribute to Christopher Nementh and these prints coincide with my own design aesthetics. The back-pages of every notebooks from my high school would have line doodles and my tryst with line art continues till date. The look is young and stylish with an artsy edge.
OVADIA & SONS
Why do I get the feeling that hounds tooth pattern was absent from the runway for quite some time? The classic black and white winter motif made an appearance at Ovadia & Sons autumn/winter 2015 menswear show with black ombre dyed effect. The looks is simple, hip and relatable luxury.
Thom Browne is a man who deals in dreams. Distinctively dark dreams. His AW2015 show deals with mourning, a rich and romantic homage to an independent and confident man who passed away after finishing his life’s work. Thom Browne sews all the love and respect he’s got for the dead into luxurious black ensembles. The runway was a funeral procession concluding in a rain of black ash. The show offered plenty of peacoats, glamorous jackets and streamlined suits to kill for. However, my eyes are on the black full length kilt/skirt like garment.
This is Rober Geller’s way of styling the 2015 man – Cropped cuffed pants, shirt with camouflage like ink blotch prints, ill fitted knitwear, socks and shoes (notice that they’re two different ones). The result? A contemporary, stylish and sporty look that you can wear straight from the runway.
This one’s sartorial butchery. Construction of garment by destruction of seams. I can’t imagine the clothes are hanging on me instead of it appearing like I am wearing the clothes but that said, I adore Yohji Yamamoto’s outright raw approach with utterly raw threads fraying from seam edges. Not an entirely new technique but you’d rather celebrate a designer who rips them and not rip them off.